The Shell Game

Marilyn and I discovered Santiago de Compostela’s pilgrimage skimming a National Geographic publication while sitting out a English summer down pour. The more we read the more we were determined to make the journey; in a truck of course. Even though we had three years to see Western Europe, walking was out. After returning in 2008 for the French section, we would recommend it as a life long memory; even if you’re a bloody atheist, agnostic or C of E! I have no intentions of dwelling on the religious end of this, just the history, beauty and ancient architecture.

We began in Canterbury, England with it’s 1000 year old stain glass, and then jumped to France, where there are four routes which all merge at Puente de la Reina, the Queen’s Bridge, Spain. We did parts of three, but left out the very southern route. I’m not going to make this a grand travelogue. So this is a personal view of just a few highlights.

Starting with the outrageous windows in Chartres’ cathedral; enough magic to make you believe in Druidism! Sunny or overcast, the windows simply reach out and shatter your senses. So much so you ignore the neck ache. When you walk out you’re still looking up! And don’t forget all the Romanesque sculptured portals! Good and inexpensive restaurants as well! So. it goes

Now cross the Loire River, take a day or so to see some of the chateaus, get some ideas how to enhance your backyard gardens and then hit Vezelay, this insane mountain town with it’s outrageously wonderful cathedral. We met a French guy who bought us a bottle of wine because ‘ I’ve lived here 45 years and you’re the first Americans I’ve met who weren’t on a tour bus.’

Conques, Mossiac and Racomador, are three more French Medieval towns not to be missed. Great food, and views. Eight feet wide streets, wonderful bakery aromas and best of all no cars!! And the climb through the mountains to Spain offers not only Alpine vistas, grazing herds of sheep and goats, but also gastronomic delights at rock bottom prices. Oh, and I forgot, Cahors, with its fortified bridge and wine! Good reds! Well, my wife bought the good one, I got the cheapest one and threw up a lot. So it goes.

Spain was cold, we slept under goose down, but that didn’t lessen the wonders of Pamploma, they run the bulls in summer if you ‘d like to risk your life, and Burgos, with a cathedral’s interior that draws nothing but gasps. This is high country, so there are many ancient monastic places which still offer a night’s lodging for one and all. We stayed in one which dated 970! No central heat, but a nice big coffee and hot rolls; with butter and jam. Leon is a fairly large town with a huge cathedral, and a waterfall of Gothic sculpture falling from the ceiling to just above your head. Fantastic! So’s the grub! And you can stay in an 11th century inn, or camp. So it goes.

There’s not enough space to describe the many interesting, outrageous and down right insane folks we encountered. The tours, always stay where those who wish to absorb the local cultures avoid. So here’s St. James in his gold, bejeweled sarcophagus. Slide up, slip your arms around it, give him a great big hug; some add a light kiss. Today’s sins are on such a global scale, I don’t think James can forgive them. Maybe you’ve had no part in committing them. If so, you’re home free! Now, go to a shop and buy a scallop, ( Cockle ) shell and sew it on somewhere. And take these words as your personal crest: There is a tide in the affairs of men which taken at the flood, leads on to fortune. Omitted, all the voyage of life is bound in shallows and in miseries. On such a full sea are we now afloat, and we must take the current when it serves, or lose our ventures. Shakespeare. Brutus from J Caesar. Don’t put off adventures. Life passes as fast as a snap of the fingers. Next Alaska, one of those places you don’t need your Blackberry. (If by chance you have that demon in your purse or pocket. So it goes. )